Address: 12 Upper St. Martin's Lane, London, WC2H 9FB
Web: www.dishoom.com
RATING: 9.5/10
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Dishoom claims to be "London's first Bombay cafe". It's more like a Bombay cafe given a New York-style makeover. (The music was Thievery Corporation - R was impressed - and he really takes his music seriously.)
Let me lay my cards on the table and begin by saying that Dishoom is the best Indian restaurant in London at the moment.
This is not a claim I make lightly. (And please forgive the effusive gushing!)
It is not the most expensive - in fact its excellent value for money. It does not have pretension to haute cuisine or a celebrity chef in the kitchen like Benaras, nor is it the Indian answer to Hakkasan like Amaya - it is simply a beautifully thought out dining experience.
For god is in the detail.
From the moment you enter the restaurant, you begin to notice small things - they make you smile, often they evoke childhood memories - of an India that is ceasing to exist, of slow, languorous summer days - before everything was air conditioned and pre the ghastly coffee chains that now dot our cities. It is marked by intelligent, thoughtful design - the decor is pitch perfect.
Suspended ceiling fans slowly revolving backwards; dangling wires with exposed light bulbs; mismatched yet very comfortable chairs (which I am told are a replica of the chairs one would find in Mumbai's Leopald cafe); filmy period Bollywood posters - there is a subtle humour and obsessive attention to detail.
The owners planned the restaurant for 5 years - clearly a labour of love.
The clock that forms a focal point is a replica of the one found in Mumbai's Victoria station - it was sent back to India 8 times because the font of the numerals or the shading in its background was not right.
Its evident that every item chosen as decor has a historical reference - and it all comes together as a witty evocation of a bygone era.
Even the toilet signs have a witty twist to them right down to the picture in the ladies loo!
And the food is good!!
We ordered both the mango lassi and the rose lassi - they were absolutely delicious.
Making a choice of the extensive menu is not an easy process. The pav bhaji was authentic - a little mild for my taste. It was definitely not greasy or dripping in butter. A bit measly on the portion size, especially for something meant to be shared. (Just two pavs? At least that curtailed the carb intake!)
I ordered the chilli cheese toast for pure nostalgia - it was just like Babloo (our cook in Delhi) made it… yummy, but again a bit on the mild side.
The waiter thoughtfully asks if we would like our breads buttered - nice touch.
The house dal would give Dal Bukhara (the eponymous star dish of Delhi's Maurya Sheraton Hotel - lauded as the best Dal in the world) a run for its reputation and money. It is authentic, yet non greasy and without my pet peeve - the huge dollop of butter plonked in the middle.
The chicken tikka is without a question - the best in London - moist, tender, grilled to perfection.
The grilled shrimps were mediocre - failed to hit the high note touched by the other dishes...
But the chicken curry was superb. It comes a pretty close second to the one my dad makes - and trust me - that is a pretty serious compliment.
I made sure, I saved some space for dessert - it was mango and chocolate kulfi on a stick - I love kulfi and the one at Dishoom brought back childhood memories of a post dinner treat sold in Delhi's Karol Bagh market. If you haven't tasted them you have no clue what I'm referring to, but if you have - Dishoom manages a great twist on them. Creamy without being cloying - a must try!
The gola/chuski (or slush puppy if you grew up in the west) was a kiddie staple - no childhood summer was complete without them. The ones at Dishoom please the adult palette as well.
The now legendary "chai" at Dishoom is well worth its reputation. The choco-chai R had was an instance of a bizarre combo working rather well.
But the "chai" I had was perfect. The road-side delicacy found in Dhabas (roadside restaurants) all over the Indian highway replicated wonderfully in London - right down to the glass. R found it a bit too milky, but for me it was like being transported back in time.
The service was quick and efficient, despite the restaurant being rather full for a late Sunday night. They don't take reservations for dinner unless it is for a party of 6 or more. But I am told that if you arrive before 7 pm you don't have to wait very long. Why they don't take reservations, I fail to understand!
If I had to be very, very critical - I would also find fault with the cold draught that hit our (rather badly positioned) table every time the main door was opened or closed (I am told the issue is being resolved).
But thats about the sum total of my complaints.
A little birdie tells me Dishoom is planning a pop-up bar in London's South bank for a month this summer, it will replicate Mumbai's Chowpatty beach - right down to fake sand. If it is anything like the restaurant itself - I am sure it will be a lot of fun.
I definitely plan to be back at Dishoom to try out all the other dishes. I foresee a lot of expansion for this restaurant, it has managed to capture that elusive X factor that is the holy grail of the restaurant business.
Go to Dishoom - its an experience coupled with great Indian food that has not been dumbed down to suit the western palette - as a lot of Indian food in London often is.